The ultimate guide to growing big juicy strawberries
One of our favorite things to grow is strawberries! The kids love them and they are pretty east to grow. In this guide to grow big juicy strawberries, I’ll share everything I know and learned about growing yummy strawberries for your family! This guide is perfect whether you’re growing in the ground, raised beds, or containers.
Strawberries are hard In zones 3-10. They’ll survive the winter and regrow each spring if properly mulched and protected from extreme cold.
Choose the right variety
1.June-Bearing Strawberries
- Fruit once per year, usually in late spring or early summer (June in most places).
- Produce a large, concentrated crop—great for preserving, freezing, or baking.
- Typically largest and sweetest fruits.
- Good for gardeners who want a big harvest all at once.
Popular Varieties:
Chandler
Honeoye
Allstar
Jewel
Earliglow
2. Everbearing Strawberries
- Usually fruit twice—once in spring/early summer, and again in late summer/fall.
- Yield is smaller than June-bearers but spread out over time.
- Good for home gardens where you want berries over a longer period.
Popular Varieties:
- Ozark Beauty
- Fort Laramie
- Quinault
3. Day-Neutral Strawberries
- Produce fruit continuously from late spring to fall, regardless of day length.
- Smaller berries but consistent harvest.
- Best suited for mild climates or container growing.
Popular Varieties:
Albion (large, firm, flavorful)
Seascape
Mara des Bois
Tristar
PLANTING STRAWBERRIES
Strawberries need 6-8 hours of full sun daily. They prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5). The best fertilizer for strawberries is usually a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 balanced fertilizer.
Planting space is 12–18 inches apart. Your strawberries will grow runners as it gets bigger. You’ll want to trim away any runners in the beginning to tell your strawberry plant to focus on growing fruit. Runner take away energy. Pinch off the first flowers for 4–6 weeks after planting to help the plant focus on root growth.
If planting in containers, use deep pots 12” or more with drainage holes. You wanna make sure you keep your soil covered with mulch or straw. I prefer straw, mulch can be known to take away nitrogen.
You can also put strawberry plant support to keep them off the soil.
Strawberry companion plating
| Plant | Benefits |
|---|---|
| Borage | Attracts pollinators, deters worms, and improves strawberry flavor and growth. |
| Spinach | Shares similar soil/light needs, helps suppress weeds. |
| Lettuce | Provides ground cover to reduce soil splash, which can cause disease. |
| Beans | Fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting strawberry root development. |
| Thyme | Deters worms and attracts pollinators. Great for natural pest control. |
| Garlic & Onions | Repel aphids, spider mites, and other pests that bother strawberries. |
| Chives | Help deter insects and enhance strawberry flavor. |
| Marigolds | Repel nematodes and pests; their scent can confuse insects. |
| Yarrow | Attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. |
| Carrots | Root systems don’t compete much with strawberries and help break up soil. |
| Plant | Why Not |
|---|---|
| Cabbage family (broccoli, kale, cauliflower, etc.) | Compete heavily for nutrients and attract pests like aphids and slugs. |
| Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplants | Can carry verticillium wilt, which also affects strawberries. |
| Potatoes | Attract similar pests and diseases (especially root rot). |
| Mint | Invasive—can overtake strawberry beds quickly. |
| Melons & Cucumbers | Compete for space and attract cucumber beetles and aphids. |
One last thing
Avoid planting strawberries where tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers grew in the last 3 years (due to shared soil diseases like verticillium wilt). Strawberry plants peak in years 2 and 3, then decline. Most strawberries are self-fertile, but more pollinators = more complete pollination = bigger, more fruit. Plant flowers nearby, like borage, lavender, yarrow, to attract bees.
